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In these five idyllic port towns, we sample village life: fishing for anchovies at midnight, savoring the best pesto, picking grapes, and cheering cliff divers as we hike the "walkway of love." Each pastel town is a delight, but my favorite is Vernazza--where Giovanni makes pasta and Granelli sells porcini mushrooms at the tiny street market. We sidetrip to Carrara's quarries where Michelangelo selected his marble, then return to Vernazza to stroll the only street with the entire village as the sun sets.
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